Alessandro Michele Infuses Dark Glamour and Elton John’s Style into Valentino Collection

Valentino closed out Paris Couture Week with a show that came with a health advisory, warning attendees that the intense lighting and enclosed setting could pose problems for those with claustrophobia or photosensitivity. Frankly, a few more warnings might have been in order: the steep staircase leading to the upper seats proved treacherous, especially for influencers navigating it in sky-high heels and sweeping gowns—many required assistants trailing behind, arms outstretched, ready to catch a fall.

Amid the darkness, a haunting soundtrack of police sirens—and perhaps the eerie calls of bitterns—set the scene, punctuated by occasional screams as stilettos found their mark on unsuspecting feet in the chaotic scramble for each guest’s tightly allotted 10-square-inch space. Persistent rain added both atmosphere and treacherous footing. To top it off, a wind machine blasted the runway during the finale with enough force to nearly topple the models. Front-row guest Nick Cave, ever the brooding rock star, likely felt right at home. Sir Elton John, in his signature pink shoes, may have felt rather less so.

The clothes themselves might have warranted a health warning—especially for minimalists, who would have broken into hives at the sight of them.

Dark Glamour: The Hallmark of Michele’s Reinvention

One of the most striking themes of Michele’s debut Valentino collection is dark glamour. This isn’t your typical evening wear; it’s fashion with a pulse, a narrative, a defiant attitude.

Black dominates the palette, but not in a monotonous way. From obsidian sequins to inky lace and raven-feather detailing, each piece tells a different story. Floor-sweeping capes, gothic embroidery, and sharply tailored suits suggest a world where the boundaries between daywear and fantasy blur.

There’s also a haunting romanticism at play. Think Victorian ruffles contrasted with punkish leather boots, or a crystal-encrusted mask paired with a sweeping opera coat. Michele’s mastery lies in turning contrasts into cohesion.

The Elton John Effect: A Tribute to Iconic Extravagance

Michele has always been vocal about his admiration for music legends, especially Sir Elton John. For this collection, he channels the legendary performer’s fearless approach to self-expression. The result is a dazzling array of pieces that echo Elton's most iconic stage looks—glittering suits, oversized sunglasses, feathered capes, and bold color clashes.

This is not costume; it's couture. Michele elevates Elton John’s flamboyance into high fashion artistry. Star-shaped appliqués, rainbow-hued silk jackets, and sparkling boots lend a sense of showmanship that captures the essence of the performer’s legacy while aligning with Valentino’s commitment to craftsmanship.

One standout look—a ruby velvet suit with a bejeweled lapel and metallic platform boots—summarizes the vibe: unapologetically bold, meticulously tailored, and emotionally evocative.

This marked Alessandro Michele’s debut couture collection for Valentino, and indeed, his first as a couture creative director anywhere. Given free rein among Paris’s finest embroiderers, cutters, and tailors, Michele indulged to the fullest. The results were extravagantly theatrical—too lavish even for Scarlett O’Hara, a touch excessive for Marie Antoinette, and dramatic enough to make Widow Twankey pause. Think enormous crinolines, panniers, and conical hoop skirts in harlequin checks or richly textured gold. These weren’t gowns for the Oscars—you couldn’t sit down in them. Nor were they Met Gala material—getting through the door would be a logistical feat.

These dresses weren’t made for practicality—they were designed to make a statement. The man who once set Gucci alight with flamboyance is now lighting fireworks under Valentino’s clientele. And chances are, they adored it. This was fashion as pure spectacle: theatrical, bold, and unapologetically extravagant. Amid the drama, there were also moments of breathtaking beauty—creations that reminded us of couture’s power to dazzle.

A drop-waisted red gown with a cascading, multi-tiered chiffon skirt seemed tailor-made for a baby billionairess living out her Disney dreams. A poetic ensemble of tiered chiffon and lace, alongside a black party dress bursting with attitude, proved to be instant crowd-pleasers. A flawlessly tailored white jacket paired with a black embroidered skirt stood out as a true showstopper. One could easily imagine Lauren Bacall snapping up the ivory dress with its coordinating trimmed cape, while the crimson watered silk gown delivered pure, unfiltered drama.

Credit to Michele, too, for casting the only models at Couture Week who didn’t all look like they’d just sat their final exams. Some even had grey hair. And—whisper it—beneath one of those Nan’s-nightlight capes, there may have been a model who wasn’t a size zero. Now that’s the kind of quiet rebellion that could really set Couture Week alight.

Unanimously positive reactions

“Alessandro is back,” declared fashion editor and stylist Carine Roitfeld after the show. “Next season, we’ll need to get creative—start hunting for vintage pieces. This was more than fashion; it was a mood, a state of being. Joyful, ultra-feminine, and utterly alive.”

Mytheresa’s Michael Kliger called it “a beautiful and intensely romantic first outing.” He added: “Michele tapped into a softer, more feminine sensibility that felt like a love letter to Rome and to the house of Valentino. With a few bold exceptions, the silhouettes were long, flowing, and expertly coordinated to flatter rather than expose—creating an elevated, sophisticated aesthetic that our top clients will absolutely appreciate.”

Broadway producer Jordan Roth was equally moved: “The moment I walked into the space and saw the collections of chairs, couches, and lamps draped in white drop cloths—like treasured heirlooms waiting to be unveiled—set against a surface of cracked mirror, I knew I was going to fall for this collection. And I did. It felt like a cinematic journey through memory—real and imagined—of distant travels, quiet separations, joyful reunions. Every emotional layer was echoed in the clothes: exquisitely crafted, rich in detail, unmistakably Alessandro, and grounded in the timeless sophistication that defines Valentino.”

Room for growth

Analyst Luca Solca noted that expanding Valentino’s accessory line—particularly to build on the success of the Rockstud range—could prove pivotal: “Leather goods account for a smaller share of Valentino’s revenues compared to its peers. One of Michele’s key challenges will be enhancing brand desirability to drive growth in that category.”

Michele seemed to rise to the occasion, unveiling a wealth of accessories on the runway, from new handbags and shoes to more unexpected additions like lower lip rings.

His appointment also marks a professional reunion with Jacopo Venturini, Valentino’s CEO since 2020. The two previously collaborated at Gucci, where Venturini served as Vice President of Merchandising and Global Markets until 2019. With Venturini’s commercial acumen and Michele’s visionary design, the partnership signals a promising blend of creativity and business strategy.

In a structural shift, Valentino has announced it will now present co-ed collections twice a year and limit its couture offerings to a single annual show in January. Asked whether this change was his decision, Michele responded at a press conference: “I think it's clear I’ve always leaned this way. I did the same at Gucci. Of course, I don’t own the brands, so you have to navigate the framework. But here, I found Jacopo Venturini—an extraordinary person, a friend, someone I deeply respect. We talked it through and were completely aligned. I have to do it this way. Even if I’m prolific, I need space and time.”

Michele’s first resort collection for the house, titled Valentino Avant les Débuts, will be unveiled in June via a lookbook. Initially available exclusively at Valentino’s two Paris boutiques starting Monday, the collection will roll out more broadly in the autumn.

The Business of Style: How Michele’s Valentino Could Redefine Luxury

Beyond the artistic expression, Michele’s impact on Valentino has significant business implications. Fashion houses thrive on reinvention, and Michele's arrival brings a fresh narrative to a legacy brand. His ability to generate cultural buzz, attract younger demographics, and challenge the status quo could result in heightened visibility and commercial success for Valentino.

Furthermore, the fusion of fashion and pop culture—especially through the Elton John homage—opens the brand to broader, global conversations. It positions Valentino as not only a house of style but a symbol of cultural relevance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who is Alessandro Michele, and what is his role at Valentino?

Alessandro Michele is a renowned Italian fashion designer who serves as the Creative Director of Gucci. While primarily associated with Gucci, this question often arises due to his signature style influencing contemporary fashion trends. However, this particular Valentino collection reflects inspiration from his aesthetic approach rather than direct involvement. Valentino’s current creative direction is led by Pierpaolo Piccioli.

How does Alessandro Michele’s influence manifest in the Valentino collection?

The Valentino collection channels Alessandro Michele’s hallmark dark glamour through dramatic silhouettes, rich textures, and theatrical elements. His penchant for maximalism, eclectic patterns, and vintage-inspired motifs inspires a bold, opulent aesthetic evident in the designs.

What aspects of Elton John’s style are incorporated into the collection?

The collection draws on Elton John’s flamboyant and theatrical fashion sense, including vivid colors, glittering embellishments, oversized glasses, and eccentric tailoring. This influence adds a playful, extravagant layer to Valentino’s sophisticated designs, celebrating glam rock and showmanship.

Why is the blend of dark glamour and Elton John’s style significant for Valentino?

This fusion marks a fresh, edgy direction that contrasts with Valentino’s traditionally elegant and refined aesthetic. By merging Michele’s dark romanticism with Elton John’s flamboyance, the collection creates a unique dialogue between classic haute couture and bold, modern extravagance.

Are there any standout pieces from the collection that showcase this influence?

Yes, key pieces include richly embroidered jackets, sequined gowns, and dramatic capes that echo dark glam vibes. Accessories inspired by Elton John’s iconic glasses and colorful stage costumes also stand out, adding playful yet luxurious details.

Conclusion

The infusion of Alessandro Michele’s signature dark glamour with the flamboyant spirit of Elton John breathes a bold new life into the Valentino collection. This daring blend challenges traditional fashion boundaries by marrying theatrical extravagance with moody sophistication, creating a striking and memorable aesthetic. The collection not only pays homage to iconic influences but also signals a vibrant evolution in Valentino’s creative narrative, inviting fashion lovers to embrace a fearless, expressive style that celebrates both elegance and individuality.