Last week, Kim Jones showcased a crystal-dusted men's collection, with Kate Moss seated in the front row. It was his final show for the fashion house.
The announcement of Jones's departure from Dior Men after his tenure as artistic director comes as little surprise—speculation about his exit from LVMH had been building for months. Yet, his departure serves as a reminder of how, despite his relatively low-key public persona, Jones has become one of Britain's most celebrated fashion exports in recent years. From his time overseeing menswear at Louis Vuitton to heading both Fendi womenswear and Dior Men simultaneously, few designers have had the privilege—or the talent—to straddle two monumental houses. The select few who have, like Karl Lagerfeld and, briefly, Tom Ford, stand as a testament to Jones's remarkable ability, which is why LVMH entrusted him with not one but two of its crown jewels.
Kim Jones: A Polymath's Farewell and Legacy in Fashion
His decision to step back from Fendi in October last year only intensified speculation that Dior Men's might soon follow. That speculation gained further traction after his stunning presentation for the house during Paris Fashion Week. Shortly afterward, he was awarded the Legion of Honour by Anna Wintour in a poignant ceremony. Wintour's heartfelt tribute, thanking him for his contributions throughout his tenure, carried the tone of a farewell. Even Jones — typically known as fashion's quiet figure — appeared deeply moved by the moment.
"Kim is not only a designer but a true polymath," remarked Anna Wintour. "He's a botanist, a zoologist—the kind of person you'd want beside you on a dinghy to a remote Scottish island to marvel at the millions of puffins that call it home. He's equally an archaeologist, a curator, and a historian. All these vocations share a common thread: an obsessive devotion to collecting, something Kim embodies completely. And I do mean obsessively. His passion for the Bloomsbury Group is legendary—he collects first editions by Duncan Grant and Virginia Woolf with the same ease and enthusiasm most of us reserve for picking up a Diet Coke or a tube of toothpaste."
At 51, Jones was visibly moved by the prestigious ceremony, surrounded by close friends and supporters, including actor Robert Pattinson and members of the Arnault family—the very figures who entrusted him with reinvigorating Dior and Fendi.
Revolutionizing Men's Couture with a Grand Finale at Dior
The show was nothing short of a spectacle. Set aside, for a moment, whether you or I could actually pull off a blush pink silk taffeta duster coat—complete with a bow at the back, as starched and stately as something Princess Margaret might have worn when Monsieur Dior was charming the young royal at Blenheim Palace in the 1950s. The real point is this: Kim Jones, as creative director of Dior Men, has spent his tenure pushing the boundaries of what couture can mean for men. He's taken the rarefied craftsmanship and artisanal finesse traditionally reserved for women's haute couture and reimagined it within the context of modern menswear. It's a bold and ambitious vision—one he brought to life in his Dior Men's show, staged in rain-swept Paris during the city's men's fashion week. It felt unmistakably like a grand finale—and a grand one at that.
Balancing London Grit with Couture Elegance
Fittingly for a British designer who began his career at the storied heritage house Dunhill, Kim Jones approached his final collection with unmistakable London grit. He was determined to deliver a powerful statement—and did so with conviction. This wasn't the first time Jones had drawn upon the full force of the Dior couture atelier for his menswear, nor was it his first foray into reinterpreting the feminine codes of Christian Dior's original designs through a masculine lens. But this time, the execution felt incredibly personal—and resolute.
In lesser hands, it could have veered into pantomime dame territory. But under Jones's direction, these elements became something else entirely—soft, feminine silhouettes expressed through billowing capes, jackets with sculptural sleeves and shoulders, and delicate dustings of crystal. These flourishes were grounded by sharp tailoring and minimalist, Japanese-inspired necklines, bringing a sense of restraint. The result was a thoughtful balance: bold, expressive pieces tempered by a clean elegance that kept them from tipping into Liberace-esque theatricality.
What could have easily descended into pantomime dame costumery was, in Kim Jones's hands, transformed into something far more refined. He delivered soft, feminine shapes—billowing capes, jackets with sculptural plumes at the sleeves and shoulders, and subtle crystal embellishments—all anchored by sharp tailoring and minimalist, Japanese-inspired necklines. The more outré elements were balanced by a clean, pared-back aesthetic that kept the collection from tipping into Liberace-level theatricality.
Mastering Couture Tailoring with a Modern Twist and Historical Influence
The color palette, too, was carefully edited. While there were occasional flourishes of pink, the focus remained on moody blacks, warm caramels, rich clotted cream, and Dior's iconic grey. Jones cited the legendary ladies' man Casanova as an influence—evident in the Zorro-like eye masks—but the overall effect, especially in the more dazzling looks, felt more like a 21st-century, Gen Z reinterpretation of Louis XIV.
Jones, with his British sartorial pedigree, has always known how to cut an exceptional suit—and that expertise was on full display. For the man less inclined toward sweeping capes or floaty silk blouses, there was no shortage of crisp, disciplined tailoring. Suits echoed the iconic Dior Bar jacket, reimagined for men with sharply defined shoulders and subtly cinched waists. Alongside these were crocodile jackets and sleek silk bombers—pieces clearly aimed at Dior's core luxury clientele.
Unsurprisingly, these more structured, statement-making looks caught the attention of the celebrity front row. Robert Pattinson and newly Oscar-nominated Kieran Culkin were among those gravitating toward them, seated alongside none other than fashion royalty Kate Moss.
A Legacy of Vision and Unforgettable Fashion Landmarks
The Legion of Honour award was the perfect pièce de résistance to his extraordinary tenure at LVMH since he first joined Vuitton in 2011. It marked a fitting farewell, underscoring his remarkable contributions. Equally telling was his decision to forgo high-profile collaborations—whether with artists or even Lewis Hamilton—for his final collection, which was a pure expression of his own vision.
Kim Jones has not only continued the legacy of Monsieur Dior's style language—firmly embedded into fashion history by the house's founder in his brief but influential reign before his untimely death—but also reminded us of the rare achievement of a British designer helming two of the world's most iconic luxury houses: Dior and, until recently, Fendi. This is no small feat, and Jones, with his sell-out sneakers and bags at both Dior and Vuitton, has contributed significantly to the Arnault family's wealth over the years.
Beyond the commercial success, his shows have become landmarks in fashion history. I've had the privilege of witnessing some of the most breathtaking spectacles, including a Tokyo runway adorned with a 12-meter-tall cyborg by Hajime Sorayama or the hauntingly beautiful 2022 show at the Pyramids of Giza, where Max Richter's live orchestra resonated through the night. These moments were not just fashion shows—they were unforgettable experiences, spine-tingling and profoundly moving.
A Bold Exploration of Dior's Legacy and Men's Fashion
The final outfit of Jones's last collection was as breathtaking as anything you'd find in the archival couture imagery from Monsieur Dior's era. A candy-gloss pink silk coat, intricately embroidered with crystals and adorned with delicate grey florals, stood as a testament to the artistry and expressiveness that Jones brought to Dior. It was a powerful statement, not a directive on how men will dress in 2025, but rather an exploration of the limitless creativity and craftsmanship that defines the Dior legacy.
Will men today be rushing to add a touch of ruching to their sleeves or an operatic swish to their evening silk coats? Some may say that this collection was about fashion in its most rarefied form rather than the more tailored, sartorial side of men's dressing. For those who might dismiss it as "effete," it's worth remembering that these proportions, silhouettes, and luxurious fabrics once symbolized power in the courts of Louis XIV. So, before writing it off, consider the historical weight behind such grandeur.
It may take some convincing for the captains of industry and the more controversial tech moguls of Silicon Valley—like Dior CEO Delphine Arnault, daughter of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault, who was seen alongside at this week's Trump inauguration—to embrace these bold sartorial choices. But there's more than one way for men to express power through fashion. Kim Jones, with his characteristic thoughtfulness, shows us that real men can wear pink with confidence. His time at Dior stands as a testament to his success, cementing him as one of the great British talents in the world of French fashion.
The Legacy of Kim Jones at Dior: Innovation Meets Tradition
Kim Jones's tenure at Dior was marked by bold creativity and an unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries while honoring the house's storied history. He masterfully balanced tradition with innovation, combining Dior's iconic motifs—such as the classic bar jacket and toile de Jouy prints—with elements of modern menswear and street culture.
Jones's use of collaboration was another hallmark of his work at Dior. Notably, his partnership with artist KAWS for the 2021 collection, which introduced the iconic BFF character to the runway, was a masterstroke. His ability to tap into contemporary cultural moments while maintaining a connection to the high fashion world was a key factor in his success. Each collection felt fresh and relevant yet firmly grounded in Dior's heritage.
Furthermore, Jones's influence extended beyond the runway. His designs were regularly seen on high-profile celebrities, from A-list actors to musical icons, all of whom embraced his vision for Dior Men's. This helped elevate the brand's visibility in popular culture, bridging the gap between fashion's elite circles and the streetwear scene.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is Kim Jones leaving Dior?
Kim Jones stepped down from his role as Artistic Director of Dior Men's after a transformative seven-year tenure. Dior confirmed his departure in January 2025, and the brand expressed deep gratitude for his contributions.
What were Kim Jones's significant achievements at Dior?
During his tenure, Jones rebranded Dior Homme to Dior Men, significantly elevating the brand's global presence. He integrated couture techniques into menswear, collaborated with artists like KAWS and Hajime Sorayama, and staged innovative runway shows. His work was recognized with the Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur, France's highest civilian honor.
Who is succeeding Kim Jones at Dior?
Jonathan Anderson, the Northern Irish designer known for his work at Loewe and his label JW Anderson, has been appointed as the new Artistic Director of Dior Men's. He will debut his first collection for Dior in June 2025.
What was the significance of Jones's final show?
Jones's final show at Paris Fashion Week was met with acclaim. It showcased his vision of modern masculinity. The event featured a minimalist set and a diverse cast of models, reflecting his commitment to inclusivity and innovation in menswear.
What are Kim Jones's plans?
While specific details about his next steps remain undisclosed, industry speculation suggests potential roles at other luxury fashion houses, including Burberry, where he could bring his expertise in menswear and branding.
Conclusion
Kim Jones' departure from Dior marks the end of a remarkable chapter in fashion history. Over the years, Jones has redefined luxury menswear with his visionary approach, blending streetwear influences with haute couture precision. His tenure at Dior Homme has been marked by groundbreaking collaborations, a refined aesthetic, and a bold reinterpretation of the brand's legacy. As he bids farewell to the iconic French house, Jones leaves behind a lasting imprint, elevating Dior's menswear to new heights. While his departure signals a shift in the fashion landscape, Jones' influence will undoubtedly continue to resonate in the industry, ensuring his legacy as one of the most innovative designers of his generation.
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